Trekking Switzerland

Alternative to the Figure-8 Knot for Tying into the Rope

Leader’s Knot vs. Figure-8 Knot – Both are safe if tied correctly, but the Figure-8 is more commonly used because it is easier to visually inspect. The Leader’s Knot is quicker to untie after a big fall, which some climbers prefer.

🔹 Direct Tie-in to the Harness – UIAA and Swiss mountain guides recommend tying directly into the harness without a carabiner to eliminate a potential weak point (as a carabiner can open or rotate unfavorably).

🔹 Double Rope Tie-in – If you are neither the first nor the last climber, you tie in the same way as shown in the video but using a doubled rope.

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