How an Experienced Guide Prevents Accidents – the Details That Make All the Difference!
How an Experienced Guide Prevents Accidents – the Details That Make All the Difference!This is a snippet from a short-rope climbing course held by the Swiss Alpine Club, led by a mountain guide with over 25 years of experience (you’ll spot him easily – he’s the one in blue pants 
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Here are 3 key things to notice in this clip:
The client walks below the guide – when the terrain allows, the client is positioned directly below the guide. Why? To eliminate the risk of a pendulum in case of a slip. This setup ensures the client would be stopped instantly and safely.
Watch how the guide switches the rope from one hand to the other – this isn’t just a routine move. It’s a critical moment that requires precise control.
Essential: the rope must remain under constant tension, even during this hand transition – which is one of the most delicate moments.How much tension? Just enough to simulate around 3 kg of hanging weight – sufficient to detect any imbalance instantly.
No rope loops around the hand! – The guide handles the rope in a way that keeps the palm completely free.If loops wrapped around the hand and the client slipped, the guide’s palm could be trapped, potentially pulling him off balance and causing loss of control.
As shown in the video, with the hand unblocked, any sudden tension is transferred into the harness – leaving both hands free to react and manage the situation safely.
It’s not the terrain that makes a maneuver safe or risky – it’s how it’s handled.
This technique is strictly for trained professionals – not recommended for beginners or outside a controlled environment.